You hardly find better environment for water entertainment than here
40° 51′ 39.9384” N 9° 39′ 23.1012” E
July 9 to July 10th
The weather forecasts of the Mediterranean countries are, as the wind blows, somewhat uncertain. We usually check three weather forecasts: Meteo Consult Marine (which is French), Wind and Sea (which is part of the Italian Lamma weather service) and Windfinder. When two out of the three seem to agree, we believe in it.
However, we should not have done that, when we – with our newly arrived son and granddaughter – sailed out in the seven mile long Golfo di Olbia to round Capo Ceraso and head south to find an adventurous anchorage.
Weatherforecasts predicted 5-6 meters pr second. It turned out to be double up. And even more, as we rounded the “horn”, Capo Ceraso. It felt a little Cape Horn-like, mostly because it was in total contradiction to our desire to give five years old Nellie a great experience of how safe it is to sail in grandma and grandfather’s boat. Clouds pulled up, waves flushed over the forehead of the ship and all the way down to the cockpit. Sometimes we made a speed of less than two knots, because current and wind were working directly against us.
As long as the adults are not afraid, children are not afraid, and we got an okay trip despite the weatherforecasts, and after a little more than four hours of sailing, we could throw our anchor in the southeastern part of Porto della Taverna, on five meters deep azurean blue water, with good shelter and straight in front of an enchanting beach.
Toys for kids when the tablet was left back in Denmark. Stones in different colours can be used for lots of games, and the bucket will secure a certain coolness
A wonderful anchor bay indeed. Indescribably beautiful and totally suitable for all kinds of playing in the water with our inflatable boat, bathing-ring, swimming wings and snorkeling equipment.
Bonus info: We believe that the bay of Cala Coda Cavallo, three miles further eastsoutheast, may be even better as anchorage, when the wind is blowing from the southeast.
Among pirates and violent offenders
41° 40′ 34.4028” N 8° 54′ 3.4524” E
Wednesday 21th of june to Sunday 25th of June
Fantastic sailing day! We set off from Cargése in the early morning and immediately set sail, even though the wind is weak, and now it’s time for morning coffee. The wind increases during the day, and eight hours later we reach Porto Pollo after an absolutely enchanting day at sea. Dolphins have played alongside the boat. One mountain scenery has replaced the next.
Porto Pollo means “the troubled port”, and it got its name many years ago, when the city was a favourite target for pirates in the area. You don’t see many pirates these days, but the city is obviously preparing for a giant invasion of sailing tourists.
The town itself is small, almost dried up – and honestly quite boring – with its only 100 permanent inhabitants. On the other hand, it is blessed with mile-long beaches, and along these hundreds of buoys are laid out to welcome the invasion of sailors.
We are here outside high season, so less than every tenth buoy is occupied. The price for a buoy outside high season: 20 €.
After two days of lazy life outside the Porto Pollo beach, we head for Propriano – a bigger city with a real port and 3200 inhabitants.
As always, we prepare ourselves for a new destination, and read in the guidebook, about a dynamic coastal city with a maritime atmosphere and great beach life. In our “bible” during the sailing trip – “Mediterranean France & Corsica Pilot” by Rod Heikell – we find a different and more interesting angle. He writes, that for decades Propriano has had a dubious reputation. In the 1950s, the city was referred to as a city to avoid, where innocent locals were being murdered, and a local fisherman killed the Coast Guard, when he was charged for fishing with dynamite.
Propriano apparently has a large catalogue of violent crimes. As late as april 1990, the liberation movement, FLNC, blew one of the city’s restaurants up.
We ourselves experienced the city as quite peaceful. Good restaurants. Nice beaches. And amiable Frenchmen.
Bonus info: Try eating at Tempi Fa, close to the harbour. It is – according to Tripadvisor – the 39th best of 2,192 restaurants in Corsica – if you rely on review sites like that. During the daytime Tempi Fa offers wine and tapas and in the evening solid Corsican dinner dishes far behind the wine cellar. Tempi Fa is build around a wine bar with exclusively Corsican wines. We had the best red wine so far on our entire time in Corsica. Granite is the name of the wine. Very complex. Full of character. It is an appellation Ajaccio Protégée, but it is produced close to Propriano, which does not have its own appellation. A votre santé!